For buriek cloth-maker and seller Clement Kanyan Wong, he developed a keen interest in the cloth and transformed it into a lucrative business while also conducting classes on cloth-making.

He said since 2018, he has taught over 2,000 people over Sarawak, Johor and Kuala Lumpur about the art of Buriek clothmaking, ensuring the craft’s preservation and evolution.

This widespread interest has contributed significantly to the revival and growing trend of Buriek cloth in the fashion world.

According to Wong, ‘buriek’ in English are called cowrie shells and the Buriek cloth is the traditional attire of the Iban community from the Batang Rajang area. Its popularity surged during the Covid-19 movement control order.

“The revival of the Buriek cloth can be traced back to a pivotal moment in 2018 when an ancestral piece was restored.

“The cloth, which originally belonged to my grandfather’s grandmother, had been damaged over time. It was painstakingly disasembled, with the cowrie shells salvaged and meticulously sewn onto new fabric,” he said.

The result was stunning, leading to Wong’s daughter winning second place in a Kumang Gawai beauty pageant.

“This success highlighted the cultural and aesthetic value of the Buriek cloth, which inspired me to further commercialise and broaden its promotion,” he said.

Wong, an Iban-Chinese man who hails from Rumah Jala, Sungai Melinau in Mujong, Kapit, drove all the way from his hometown to Kuching for six hours specifically to showcase his craft at the bazaar.

Despite the long drive, Wong remained happy as the Buriek cloth saw impressive sales and creations from other makers from Kapit were being showcased here.

He said the production of Buriek cloth involves sourcing plain skirts and cowrie shells, which have become more accessible at local craft stores albeit at higher costs.

“Originally, the buriek could be bought online for as cheap as RM11 per half kilogramme. Today, the same amount costs RM40-RM50, reflecting its increased value and demand,” he said.

Adding on, Wong said there are two types of buriek — old and modern.

“The old type originated from Chinese traders who traded in Batang Rajang. The difference between the old and new ones is that the newer or modern shells are sturdier, while the older ones are fragile and break easily.”

Historically, Wong said the Iban used Buriek cloth to add vibrancy to their mourning attire, a tradition that has evolved into a fashion statement.

“The Iban mainly wore black attire to mourn the death of their warrior named Balang Balai Nyabung. Everyone was wearing black.

“Eventually, they started to decorate the black cloth with the buriek to appear cheerful. Nowadays, it has become a trend in fashion.

“However, the buriek cloth could also root from Pulau Sumba in Indonesia,” he explained.

For the buriek cloth, Wong said the price range could be from RM250 to RM3,500.

“The designs are mostly inspired from the flora and fauna where there are motifs such as crabs, scorpions, bungai terung, and so on,” Wong said.